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Hawthorne, Nathaniel, 1804-1864

"Passages from the English Notebooks, Volume 1."

We now passed under an
old stone archway, through a lane that led us from the river-side up past
the cathedral, whence a gentleman and lady were just emerging, and the
verger was closing the door behind them.
We returned to our hotel, and ordered luncheon,--some cold chicken, cold
ham, and ale, and after paying the bill (about fifteen shillings, to
which I added five shillings for attendance) we took our departure in a
fly for the railway. The waiter (a young woman), chambermaid, and boots,
all favored us with the most benign and deferential looks at parting,
whence it was easy to see that I had given them more than they had any
claim to receive. Nevertheless, this English system of fees has its good
side, and I never travel without finding the advantage of it, especially
on railways, where the officials are strictly forbidden to take fees, and
where, in consequence, a fee secures twice as much good service as
anywhere else. Be it recorded, that I never knew an Englishman to refuse
a shilling,--or, for that matter, a halfpenny.
From Worcester we took tickets to Wolverhampton, and thence to
Birkenhead. It grew dark before we reached Chester, and began to rain;
and when we got to Birkenhead it was a pitiless, pelting storm, under
which, on the deck of the steamboat, we crossed the detestable Mersey,
two years' trial of which has made me detest it every day more and more.
It being the night of rejoicing for the taking of Sebastopol and the
visit of the Duke of Cambridge, we found it very difficult to get a cab
on the Liverpool side; but after much waiting in the rain, and afterwards
in one of the refreshment-rooms, on the landing stage, we took a Hansom
and drove off.


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