I saw little difference in the accommodation, except
that young women attended us instead of men,--a pleasant change. It was
a showery day, but J----- and I walked out to see the shore and the town
and the docks, and, if possible, the ship in which S----- was to sail.
The most noteworthy object was the remains of an old castle, near the
water-side; the square, gray, weed grown, weird keep of which shows some
modern chimney-pots above its battlements, while remaining portions of
the fortress are made to seem as one of the walls for coal-depots, and
perhaps for small dwellings. The English characteristically patch new
things into old things in this manner, materially, legally,
constitutionally, and morally. Walking along the pier, we observed some
pieces of ordnance, one of which was a large brass cannon of Henry
VIII.'s time, about twelve feet long, and very finely made. The bay of
Southampton presents a pleasant prospect, and I believe it is the great
rendezvous of the yacht-club. Old and young seafaring people were
strolling about, and lounging at corners, just as they do on Sunday
afternoons in the minor seaports of America.
From the shore we went up into the town, which is handsome, and of a
cheerful aspect, with streets generally wide and well paved,--a cleanly
town, not smoke-begrimed. The houses, if not modern, are, at least with
few exceptions, new fronted. We saw one relic of antiquity,--a fine
mediaeval gateway across the principal street, much more elevated than
the gates of Chester, with battlements at the top, and a spacious
apartment over the great arch for the passage of carriages, and the
smaller one on each side for foot-passengers.
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