These villages
all look antique, and the smallest of them generally are formed of such
close, contiguous clusters of houses, and have such narrow and crooked
streets, that they give you an idea of a metropolis in miniature. The
houses along the road (of which there are not many, except in the
villages) are almost invariably old, built of stone, and covered with a
light gray plaster; generally they have a little flower-garden in front,
and, often, honeysuckles, roses, or some other sweet and pretty rustic
adornment, are flowering over the porch. I have hardly had such images
of simple, quiet, rustic comfort and beauty, as from the look of these
houses; and the whole impression of our winding and undulating road,
bordered by hedges, luxuriantly green, and not too closely clipped,
accords with this aspect. There is nothing arid in an English landscape;
and one cannot but fancy that the same may be true of English rural life.
The people look wholesome and well-to-do,--not specimens of hard, dry,
sunburnt muscle, like our yeomen,--and are kind and civil to strangers,
sometimes making a little inclination of the head in passing. Miss
Martineau, however, does not seem to think well of their mental and moral
condition.
We reached Furness Abbey about twelve. There is a railway station close
by the ruins; and a new hotel stands within the precincts of the abbey
grounds; and continually there is the shriek, the whiz, the rumble, the
bell-ringing, denoting the arrival of the trains; and passengers alight,
and step at once (as their choice may be) into the refreshment-room, to
get a glass of ale or a cigar,--or upon the gravelled paths of the lawn,
leading to the old broken walls and arches of the abbey.
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