They should be sunk a
few inches deeper in the soil than they stood before, and the
locality be such as to admit of good culture. The soil should
never be permitted to become hard, weedy, or grass-grown. As a
rule, I prefer two-year-old plants, while those of one year's
growth answer nearly as well, if vigorous. If in haste for fruit,
it may be well to get three-year-old plants, unless they have been
dwarfed and enfeebled by neglect. Subsequent culture consists
chiefly in keeping the soil clean, mellow, rich, and therefore
moist. I have named the best fertilizers for the currant; but if
the product of the horse-stable is employed, use it first as a
mulch. It will thus gradually reach the roots. Otherwise it is too
stimulating, and produces a rampant growth of wood rather than
fruit.
Under any circumstances this tendency to produce an undue amount
of wood must be repressed almost as rigorously as in the grape-
vine. The secret of successful currant-culture is richness
beneath, and restriction above. English gardeners are said to have
as complete and minute systems of pruning and training currants as
the grape; but we do not seem to have patience for such detail.
Nor do I regard it as necessary. Our object is an abundant supply
of excellent fruit; and this result can be obtained at a
surprisingly small outlay of time and money, if they are expended
judiciously.
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